How is it that some people wash their face with shampoo as their only skin care step and have clear skin, while many of us have meticulous acne-fighting skincare routines and still get blemishes? Given that you are reading Acne Club, there’s a good chance that you are also in the acne-prone skin group.
What is Acne-Prone Skin?
Acne-prone skin tends to develop acne more often than other skin types. While most people experience pimples while going through puberty, some will experience worse breakouts or deal with it longer well into adulthood. They might label their skin as acne-prone to help find the right products for their skin. This skin type tends to have excess oil production and may be quite sensitive, leading to frequent breakouts.
Understanding the acne-prone skin type is important to be able to effectively manage and treat it. Common characteristics of acne-prone skin are:
- Oily Surface: Excess sebum gives the skin a greasy appearance.
- Frequent Breakouts: Regular occurrence of various types of acne.
- Sensitive Reaction: Prone to irritation and inflammation.
What Causes Acne-Prone Skin?
Acne-prone skin is a broad term that describes skin that frequently has blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and sometimes more severe forms like cysts and nodules. There are several different ways this acne can be caused, including:
Extra Sebum
Sebum is an oily substance produced by your sebaceous glands to moisturize your skin. It plays a vital role in maintaining the skin’s moisture and protecting it from external contaminants. However, when your skin produces too much sebum, it can mix with dead skin cells and block hair follicles.
Excess sebum also creates an ideal environment for the acne-causing bacteria Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) to thrive, which can cause inflammation in your blocked pores leading to red angry pimples.
Microbiome
Your skin has its own set of bacteria, fungi, and viruses, known as the microbiome, which can influence acne. The bacteria C. acnes, is commonly present on human skin and it can help protect our skin, but it can also contribute to acne for some of us. Research has indicated that there’s a diverse population of C. acnes strains, some of which are more likely to contribute to acne development than others. The type that is naturally prevalent on your skin can contribute to it being acne-prone or acne-free.
Additionally, the yeast Malassezia, which lives on your skin, can sometimes overgrow and cause red bumps on your face that look like acne, but is actually Malassezia folliculitis or fungal acne.
Cell Turnover
Normally, skin cells turnover and shed regularly, but in acne-prone skin, this process might not be as effective.
If dead skin cells don’t shed properly, they can mix with excess sebum (oil) and clog pores. This clogging is a primary factor in the development of acne because it creates an environment for acne-causing bacteria to grow and cause inflammatory acne. If you naturally have a slower or irregular cell turnover this can increase the likelihood that you’ll regularly experience clogged pores breakouts.
Hormones
Fluctuations in hormones, such as androgens, can trigger sebaceous glands to make more sebum and cause your skin to be oily, leading from blackheads and whiteheads to cystic acne. Hormonal acne often appears on the jawline, chin, and lower face.
In addition to the standard above treatments for oily acne-prone skin, if you are female your dermatologist may also suggest a medication to target these hormones. Birth control pills and anti-androgens like spironolactone and the topical treatment Winlevi can be effective in addressing the androgens that trigger excess sebum production.
Acne-Prone Skin Routine
For those of us with acne-prone skin, most of the battle is finding a skincare routine that balances effective acne treatments with keeping our skin healthy and hydrated. Too many harsh active ingredients can irritate our skin and damage our skin barrier. And too many nourishing ingredients without treating acne can often cause clogged pores and pimples.
Look for products designed for acne-prone skin that won’t clog your pores and adapt each step to your skin’s specific needs and responses. A dermatologist can offer the most tailored advice for your situation. A standard routine for acne-prone skin that strikes a balance between managing acne and maintaining overall skin health would look something like this:
Cleanser
Begin with a gentle cleanser to remove excess oil and impurities without stripping the skin.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Purifying Foaming Facial Cleanser with Niacinamide
Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Cleansing and Makeup Removing Foaming Gel
CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser with Ceramides and Amino Acids
Treatment
Applying targeted acne treatments with ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, and azelaic acid can help clear pores and calm inflammatory acne.
TULA Clear It Up Acne Clearing and Tone Correcting Gel with 2% Salicylic Acid
Lightweight Hydration
Adding extra layers of lightweight hydration, also called skin flooding, is a great way to add extra moisture to acne-prone skin without relying on heavy products that might clog pores.
EltaMD Skin Recovery Essence Hydrating Toner for Skin Barrier with Amino Acids
Moisturizer
It’s a common misconception that acne-prone skin doesn’t need moisturizing. Opt for a lightweight moisturizer or gel moisturizer to hydrate without causing further breakouts.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Fluide Lightweight Protective Moisturizer with Niacinamide
Hada Labo Tokyo Skin Plumping Gel Cream with Super Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramides, and Collagen
Uriage Bariederm CICA Daily Gel-Cream with Centella Asiatica and Hyaluronic Acid
Sun Protection
Daily sunscreen application protects the skin from UV damage and can prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation left behind after pimples from worsening.
Kate Somerville HydraKate Illuminating Sunscreen Drops SPF 50+ with Zinc Oxide and Mineral Tint
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Light Fluid Face Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 60
Remember that having acne-prone skin does not mean you will always have acne, and having acne does not mean you are doing anything wrong compared to people with effortlessly clear skin. It also means that the skin care products those people use and love might not be the right choice for you. Use this self knowledge as a tool to find the right products and treatments that work for you and your skin.
